Seattle Times: A Rave for Ethan Stowell's New Ballard Restaurant, Staple & Fancy Mercantile

The Seattle Times' Providence Cicero stopped by Staple & Fancy and the review is in: "It's definitely fun, and it's better than good. It's great. ★★★½"More from the article:

Stowell looks utterly content to be back on the line, completely focused on the food; his demeanor is as easygoing as a guy cooking for friends at home.

You won't leave hungry, that's for sure. They feed you like Italian grandmothers, but this rustic, refined fare isn't anything like Nonna's.

The kitchen gets the balance of flavors right in dish after dish: lifting with spice, rounding with sweet, sharpening with acid, salting judiciously.

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